Lucera is a wonderful wee town on top of a rather sizeable hill --all the better to both contain and defend against marauding Muslims and the odd wandering Turk, in ancient days of continual instability, I suppose. In the heart of Puglia, the stepped heel of Italy, it has all the twisting lack of directional logic of a sun-dried olive, mirroring Siena and other little Tuscan towns, but here not a soul speaks English, which is superb.
I had arrived only the day before the onset of this heavy, velveteen night, wreathed in cigar smoke and declarations of love, and had just made the momentous discovery that there was a smoking pizza production, for there is really no other word to call it, which is open every hour of every day except Christmas and Doomsday. To enter this place after finding first the alley, marked from other alleys by the smell and then the crowd, always, one shimmies crab-ways down a hole in a wall under a bare bulb, to find yourself straddling a thin corner of inhabitable space, practically inside one of the 2 blast-furnace wood ovens that gulp and gasp from the far side of the room, not 6 feet away. The heat is incredible, and a small wizened man covered in flour, preserved against any further aging by years of living in this inferno, proffers two giant pieces of pizza, deep and crispy, along with two glass bottles of water, all for 1 euro 50. Heaven, and I haven’t even entered the gates yet.
I met Marta while living in Rome, a dark haired, full lipped stunner of the first degree. Over the course of a summer, it became clear that while she had a boyfriend of her own, in her own distant paradise of Manchester – how she spoke! A drawling “Munchooster” – I fell in love, at least with our afternoon trips to the beach and the way she put her arm on mine at dinner, if not with her. It came to pass that she invited me to visit her family with her for a week over the summer, a long bus ride into the other, exotic world of poorer Southern Italy, and I felt that, perhaps, destiny was not such a foolish idea. 3 weeks later, I stood in the square of Lucera at dusk, heard the low murmur of the entire town speaking cumulatively its hopes, desires, and of the daily football match, and was keenly aware of my long evening shadow as it stood next to another willowy form breathing next to my own, although that beginning was the last of the romance.
We walked softly through the arbor lined walkway to her house. I smelled grape leaves, caught the accusing eye of an old woman as she turned to her companion, and began slowly to realize that here, in the south of Italy, in the shadow of the Roman Empire and its wealthy progeny, children are by far the most prized possessions that a family can boast, and that in each child, the town as a whole holds a vested interest and claim. Who was I, a privileged American, to walk into their garden and attempt to pick their flowers?
There then were times when I felt a bit the 3rd or 5th wheel, depending on the vehicle. Lucera is a very small town, and
everybody knows everybody, so when walking around with Marta, we couldn’t move two steps to the windward without having somebody schmoozing, gabbing, and giving me the pig eye. Every boy-man in the village, 14 years old and up, was gunning hard for this girl; it turned out that she’s quite the legendary Mae West. My role became to remain near-bye while batted eyes and toothy smiles were fired off with reckless abandon, and I felt defeated without having had a chance. A few days later, however, I met a group of her friends while morosely kicking pinecones in the plaza, and after playing calcetto (small sided football) with them and recognizing each other the following night, a bunch of them took a shine to me, and all went well from there.
The finest was Luca, who when I first met him seemed like a greased up shiny flirt-monkey, but in fact turned out to be rather wonderful, and told me quite sincerely over a beer on the steps of the abbey that he is solely responsible for the Luceran dialect. When pressed, he then he conceded that really, he had only instituted the use of the word "Numero!", meaning "all right!" or "excellent!" or "Number!", if you want to be literal about it. But sure enough, everyone in this town said “Numero!” every five words. I tried an experiment -- we went one night to a jazz concert a few towns over, another teeny hill top town accessible only via a slithering viper of a road, canted over the wrong way on turns. In love with the night and the wine, I Numero'ed my head off at the concert, to no avail. Numero is Lucera, ever the more shall be so, and I am proud to have eaten squid and gotten soused with the Father-Creator of a language.
Speaking of squid, the question then must be posed: where do squid come from? Why, the sea, of course. I wish I could tell you we caught live squid, but that would be completely false. But we did go the ocean many times, twice on the Gargano peninsula, which is a shootlet that sticks out of the ankle of Italy, all a-cover with cliffs, crumbling walls, olive trees, and grottos. The first day, we turned left, and wound up on a natural rock platform that sloped in to the water, what with spongy fuzza-forms in the water and a tunnel into which waves sloshed and a hole atop out of which water shot when the waves sloshed mightily. The next day we turn right, and found a grotto of unsurpassed solemnity -- all the water up to your knees
and warm, out from which one could swim into open water further out, or around a necklace of manatee looking boulders, to a beach of -- lo!-- sand. The sun was unrelenting, and my sunburn correspondingly so, tingling long after the cold shower at home.
Nights there were strolling, and eating, and strolling again. Twice we drove out into the countryside with a bunch of people, clonged over rutted dirt roads, bottoming out the car a few times, and arrived at one farmhouse or another, the people listing to the left, the house to the right, with party going full bore, 5 years olds to the grandmothers, under a portico. There were thousands of kittens, seemingly reproducing through fission, and geese wonked plaintively from the soft dark of across the drive. A hole in the wall, and the local crazy man, equivalent to the man whose solemn duty it is to be the cook – there are always these men, always everywhere -- is busy singing his forearm hairs and sweating all over the pizzas he is throwing in and out of the belching fire. And of course all the girls say, but I want to do it, and they do, to ribald and obscene coaching from the male contingent, and naturally every gets covered in flour. The pizza seems marvelous, but you cant be sure, since in order to get any at all, you have to shoulder to the front, grapple it in, and stuff it blazing hot into your maw, for which the appropriate prescription is cold red wine, just taken out of the freezer.
When I arrived the first night, the entire of Marta's family was waiting to meet me; aunts, uncles, grandmother, grandfather, Pablo the dog. There was a halo of cigar smoke around the outside table, and the ancient grandfather solemnly wished me many good things to come in my life. Marta made a whirling motion at her temple with her right index finger. Then, I was informed that the guest apartment where I was to stay was across town, to which I responded with a giggle. I had visions of grandfather patrolling the hallways with an ancient blunderbuss, hoping to catch a marauding American in the dead of night.
And there were cousins, of all things, and lunches eaten with these cousins with shirts off, and a final day at the beach in the town where the grandparents live, a massive affair, what with the miles and miles of numbered umbrellas -- we were 16 red. After a gigantic lunch, it was back to the beach, and sitting off alone with the three cousins, ages 12 13, and 15, and the slow realization that I am in fact not so very different and not very frightening up close, wisely nodding our heads in agreement over the lacking aspects of the latest Harry Potter, and mud fights, (Really! At your age!) followed by several sound duckings, a light-hearted nose-bleed and then, sadly, I had to go. And I was driven to the bus station, still smelling of beach and sun, and talked to the girl in the seat in front of me all the way home, because I felt so good.
The sweeping wave of bodily wealth that we search for, that lies dormant off in lands unseen, re-emerged in my soul. Marta's aunt runs a English school in Lucera, and wants me to go and teach, and yet, would that be the same? It is a curious question of time vs. place, one that constantly moves me on and that has been the ruin of not just one relationship, but I think that time consistently wins out, or at least I’d like to think so. The notion that, while inscrutably singular and painfully, sweetly personal, this week could have been anywhere in that great unknown, is a comforting one, for surely there are as many sea tinged metamorphoses left in my body as there are places I have yet to see.
Then 2 days ago, I got a post card, a cartolino from Luca, reminding me, if they make me work too hard, to tell them to piss off in Luceran dialect. Numero.